A HOLLYWOOD filmstar brought a touch of glamour to Bicester Village on Wednesday.
British actress Thandie Newton was at the shopping village to officially launch this year's British Designers Collective, which runs for the next six weeks.
It's billed as a not-to-be-missed opportunity for shoppers to survey the freshest brands in British fashion and pick up key pieces from their previous seasons' collections at an affordable price.
Miss Newton, who a BAFTA award for Best Supporting Actress in 2006 for her role in the film Crash and has starred opposite Will Smith and Eddie Murphy, is a well-known ambassador of British fashion and supporter of UK designers.
She said: “I am delighted to be working with Bicester Village supporting young British designers. The British Designers Collective is such an innovative way of giving new talent such an important ‘window'.”
Set in a specially designed, neon-coloured boutique in the heart of Bicester Village, the British Designers Collective is a collaboration between Value Retail and the British Fashion Council
to introduce emerging designers to a wider audience, who get to see a new generation of designers under one roof and snap up some bargains.
This year's British Designers Collective brings together a mouth-watering collection of some of the hottest names in British fashion, all at the usual Bicester Village reductions of up to 60 per cent off the recommended retail price.
Participants include multi-award-winning Jonathan Saunders, with his signature graphic prints and Felicity Brown's high-voltage glamour, and there's easy-to-wear luxury from Holly Fulton. There's also sequined knitwear from British-based designer Markus Lupfer, razor-sharp tailoring from Todd Lynn and well-cut dresses by Preen.
Other participating designers include Emma Cook, Felder Felder, Goat, Jean-Pierre Braganza, Marios Schwab and Osman.
Accessories include Georgina Goodman's shoes (Georgina has been hailed as the ‘future of footwear' by Manolo Blahnik), Jane Carr's hand-finished scarves, Fiona Paxton's hand-beaded jewellery and statement jewellery by Lara Bohinc.
2011年3月31日星期四
Consumer Shoe Index
I've always considered shoe catalogs to be a relatively safe pleasure, if only because a new pair of shoes — unlike new clothes — can be counted on to provide a jolt of fashion without leaving one breathless with anxiety. Or so it used to be until the appearance of Bergdorf Goodman's spring shoe catalog. From the first item on, which is a crazy quilt of a Dries van Noten sandal that rings in at $920, it is clear that one should beware all enterprises requiring new shoes. Which is not to say that there isn't the occasional bargain, such as a Manolo Blahnik ballet flat for $665 (!) But if you're looking for the kind of footwear that will knock somebody's socks off (e.g., Azzedine Alaïa's bootie, above), the new normal hovers around $2,000. And then there's Alexander McQueen's gold T-strap wedge, set on a heel that's five and a half inches, and calls for an outlay of $3,495. If you think too hard about any of this, it can make you weep.
2011年3月29日星期二
She's bringing the '60s back
If the '60s are making a modern-day comeback, it's thanks in large part to Janie Bryant, the renowned costume designer behind the popular television series Mad Men.
Since 2008, she has been the force behind a revolution in the fashion world, bringing vintage back and inspiring designers such as Prada along the way.
Bryant is doing with 1960s style exactly what stylist Patricia Field did a decade ago with Sex and the City (the Manolo Blahnik craze, gold jewelery and vintage dresses).
You can see traces of Bryant all over the place; at retailers selling "nerd" glasses on Broadway, in the aisles of Forever 21, recent Michael Kors shows, in Halloween costumes and even on invitations to themed events. Even Brooks Brothers started selling a three-piece "Mad Men Edition" suit.
It is not often that a television show becomes so successful because of its clothing choices.
"I was not expecting this at all," Bryant says. "I see it everywhere, on the catwalk, in the street. The first time it really hit me was when (show creator) Matt Weiner called me at the beginning of season two to tell me he saw guys dressed up as Don Draper on the street."
I meet the Tennessee-born Bryant at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, where she is getting ready to present a conference for fashion students. A "lady" to her core (she doesn't own a single pair of flat shoes), Bryant proudly shows me her handbag, a piece from her new collection of clothing for American chain QVC.
With the success of Mad Men, Bryant has slowly built an empire consisting of items such as vintage nail polish, a book on one's quest for personal style (The Fashion File) and clothing for women. She is now planning to step into the world of men's clothing, lingerie, wedding dresses and even bedding, all faithful to her passion for vintage.
Bryant is obsessed with antique clothing. She picks every piece of material for the show in Los Angeles second-hand stores with the same discerning eye as a museum curator. Good thing too, as Reiner is known for being a stickler for details. For example, he demands that his actresses stop working out so that they don't have muscled arms.
Each episode uses between 75 and 200 costumes, a massive task for which Bryant counts on a team of nine to help. She makes the majority of the costumes herself.
"Let's just say that the budget is really tight, we have to be really creative," Bryant says.
After studying fashion design in California, New York and Paris, Bryant then transitioned into the world of costume design. She earned an Emmy Award for her work on the show Deadwood in 2005, but it was Mad Men that really put her on the map in 2007.
Bryant says she draws inspiration from stylish early-1960s films such as The Apartment, The Days of Wine, Madison Avenue and Les Bonnes Femmes, which she studies religiously. Production for the fourth series of Mad Men wrapped in September and Bryant is still waiting to find out when filming for season five will begin.
Bryant also works with Montreal actress Jessica Pare, who play's Don Draper's fiancée Megan, on the show.
"I love Jessica so much," Bryant says. "That character was all about the new life for Don Draper, about showing what was going on in fashion at that time. It is still office wear, but we still have glimpses of mini dresses, boots; she's the modern young girl."
As for the character of Betty Draper (January Jones), Bryant said she draws inspiration from both her grandmother and Grace Kelly. Bryant has also been credited with the rediscovered appreciation for women with curves on the small screen, such as Christina Hendricks.
And what is she most proud of?
"That people are starting to dress up more," she says.
Since 2008, she has been the force behind a revolution in the fashion world, bringing vintage back and inspiring designers such as Prada along the way.
Bryant is doing with 1960s style exactly what stylist Patricia Field did a decade ago with Sex and the City (the Manolo Blahnik craze, gold jewelery and vintage dresses).
You can see traces of Bryant all over the place; at retailers selling "nerd" glasses on Broadway, in the aisles of Forever 21, recent Michael Kors shows, in Halloween costumes and even on invitations to themed events. Even Brooks Brothers started selling a three-piece "Mad Men Edition" suit.
It is not often that a television show becomes so successful because of its clothing choices.
"I was not expecting this at all," Bryant says. "I see it everywhere, on the catwalk, in the street. The first time it really hit me was when (show creator) Matt Weiner called me at the beginning of season two to tell me he saw guys dressed up as Don Draper on the street."
I meet the Tennessee-born Bryant at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, where she is getting ready to present a conference for fashion students. A "lady" to her core (she doesn't own a single pair of flat shoes), Bryant proudly shows me her handbag, a piece from her new collection of clothing for American chain QVC.
With the success of Mad Men, Bryant has slowly built an empire consisting of items such as vintage nail polish, a book on one's quest for personal style (The Fashion File) and clothing for women. She is now planning to step into the world of men's clothing, lingerie, wedding dresses and even bedding, all faithful to her passion for vintage.
Bryant is obsessed with antique clothing. She picks every piece of material for the show in Los Angeles second-hand stores with the same discerning eye as a museum curator. Good thing too, as Reiner is known for being a stickler for details. For example, he demands that his actresses stop working out so that they don't have muscled arms.
Each episode uses between 75 and 200 costumes, a massive task for which Bryant counts on a team of nine to help. She makes the majority of the costumes herself.
"Let's just say that the budget is really tight, we have to be really creative," Bryant says.
After studying fashion design in California, New York and Paris, Bryant then transitioned into the world of costume design. She earned an Emmy Award for her work on the show Deadwood in 2005, but it was Mad Men that really put her on the map in 2007.
Bryant says she draws inspiration from stylish early-1960s films such as The Apartment, The Days of Wine, Madison Avenue and Les Bonnes Femmes, which she studies religiously. Production for the fourth series of Mad Men wrapped in September and Bryant is still waiting to find out when filming for season five will begin.
Bryant also works with Montreal actress Jessica Pare, who play's Don Draper's fiancée Megan, on the show.
"I love Jessica so much," Bryant says. "That character was all about the new life for Don Draper, about showing what was going on in fashion at that time. It is still office wear, but we still have glimpses of mini dresses, boots; she's the modern young girl."
As for the character of Betty Draper (January Jones), Bryant said she draws inspiration from both her grandmother and Grace Kelly. Bryant has also been credited with the rediscovered appreciation for women with curves on the small screen, such as Christina Hendricks.
And what is she most proud of?
"That people are starting to dress up more," she says.
2011年3月28日星期一
Shoe Showdown
When it comes to high-heeled shoes, many women seem to lose all sense of reality. A just-released consumer reports Shopsmart survey reveals 60 percent are willing to tolerate painful shoes for fashion's sake.
The shoes on display at this Manolo Blahnik Boutique are quite stunning. You can easily spend a small fortune here. Anywhere from several hundred to thousands of dollars.
To find out if high-end, expensive shoes are worth the high price, consumer reports rounded up more than a dozen eager employees to try out three different pairs.
"We covered up all the labels so the women couldn't tell which were the less expensive pairs of shoes and which were the expensive ones," Mandy Walker said.
The shoes included a $30 pair of Mossimo's from Target, $69 heels from Nine West, and this $575 pair from Manolo Blahnik.
The women walked a defined course twice a day for a week in each pair of shoes. They filled out a ballot each time.
Most of the women thought two pairs looked and felt pretty good, but not the $30 pair from Target.
"I was holding onto the wall when I was walking around the building testing them," Cathy Cotters said.
"These shoes were the most uncomfortable of the ones that we tested," Lisa Gill said.
To size up how well each shoe was made, consumer reports did the unthinkable, cutting the shoes in half.
"Overall the Manolos were a better-made shoe. The materials they were made of were superior, and many of the women liked the styling, too."
Consumer reports says good leather heels need special care. It's best not to wear them two days in a row. That gives the shoes time to dry out.
However, in the blind tests more women thought the $69 Nine West shoes were more comfortable.
Consumer reports says the smart money move with high heels - make fit the deciding factor.
"Determine the style you want, what your budget is, and if they feel good when you walk around in them, buy them," Walker said.
And forget wearing them out in bad weather. One step in a puddle with oil, gas, or road salt and you can ruin them.
The shoes on display at this Manolo Blahnik Boutique are quite stunning. You can easily spend a small fortune here. Anywhere from several hundred to thousands of dollars.
To find out if high-end, expensive shoes are worth the high price, consumer reports rounded up more than a dozen eager employees to try out three different pairs.
"We covered up all the labels so the women couldn't tell which were the less expensive pairs of shoes and which were the expensive ones," Mandy Walker said.
The shoes included a $30 pair of Mossimo's from Target, $69 heels from Nine West, and this $575 pair from Manolo Blahnik.
The women walked a defined course twice a day for a week in each pair of shoes. They filled out a ballot each time.
Most of the women thought two pairs looked and felt pretty good, but not the $30 pair from Target.
"I was holding onto the wall when I was walking around the building testing them," Cathy Cotters said.
"These shoes were the most uncomfortable of the ones that we tested," Lisa Gill said.
To size up how well each shoe was made, consumer reports did the unthinkable, cutting the shoes in half.
"Overall the Manolos were a better-made shoe. The materials they were made of were superior, and many of the women liked the styling, too."
Consumer reports says good leather heels need special care. It's best not to wear them two days in a row. That gives the shoes time to dry out.
However, in the blind tests more women thought the $69 Nine West shoes were more comfortable.
Consumer reports says the smart money move with high heels - make fit the deciding factor.
"Determine the style you want, what your budget is, and if they feel good when you walk around in them, buy them," Walker said.
And forget wearing them out in bad weather. One step in a puddle with oil, gas, or road salt and you can ruin them.
2011年3月22日星期二
Scarves with real-world design making it big
HE'S a 57-year-old architecture professor who makes scarves in his garage during his spare time – not the classic CV for a designer selling his or her wares at a top London department store.
But Richard Weston's creations can now be found alongside those of Alexander McQueen and Manolo Blahnik on the shelves of the 136-year-old Liberty store after appearing on a television talent show to find the UK's next top designer.
Professor Weston, an expert in modern Nordic architecture who has taught at Cardiff University since 1999, makes the scarves in a studio at his home in the Vale of Glamorgan village of Dinas Powys.
Based on the patterns found in naturally-occurring crystals and fossils, his designs now sell for up to ￡210, with Liberty expecting his range of scarves to turn over ￡170,000 over the course of this year.
"It's lucky I'm used to not thinking in the box," said Prof Weston. "Being involved in architecture, it's something you get used to."
The designs for the scarves are based on the high-resolution scans of minerals, fossils and stones, making the images unique.
"You can't beat nature at doing certain kinds of things. If you want subtlety of colour and intricacy of pattern and variation, nature is it," he said.
He picked up his first mineral in 2003 when a chunk of ammonite in the window of a crystal shop in a Cardiff arcade caught his eye.
He used a scanner to transfer the swirling pattern to his computer, and was stunned by the result.
He said: "I started off buying cheap pebbles for ￡5 or ￡6, and each time they became more and more interesting. I'd pick up minerals and stones every time I went on holiday, or to a conference. I've got about 40 boxes at the moment."
After his initial fascination with creating electronic images of microscopic patterns in various crystals, it was two years before Prof Weston discovered that new technology would allow him to print the images onto fabric.
In 2005 he sponsored students at Newport Art College to use silk emblazoned with his designs in their end-of-year fashion show.
Then, in early 2010, his interest was pricked by an interview with Liberty's managing director Ed Burstell on Radio 4's Today programme.
The newly-appointed Mr Burstell wanted to find the next big thing in retail by holding an open day at the store.
Prof Weston added: "It was a kind of X Factor for design, so I signed up.
"I had a terrible cold and missed the first audition but I applied for the next round, and it was lucky I did because it was then discovered that there was going to be a programme filmed at that round."
The programme would end up as the BBC's Britain's Next Big Thing, which airs in April, hosted by Dragons' Den entrepreneur Theo Paphitis.
But, despite Prof Weston catching the eye of Liberty's buyers, he had a lot of work before the end product was suitable for sale on the prestigious shelves of its store in Great Marlborough Street, just off London's Oxford Street.
"At first I was making long narrow scarves, because people said that square ones would not sell," he said.
"But Ed Burstell said immediately that he wanted the biggest squares possible.
"But it was so difficult to get square silk prints with a design, and to get them hand-rolled was impossible. I could get it done in China, but they wanted large quantities."
Prof Weston ended up travelling to Lake Como in Italy to source the perfect silks on which to print his scans of minerals, a trip that will be shown on Britain's Next Big Thing when it is aired from April 12.
"They are at the forefront of digital printing, and they offer an all-in service, something which, sadly, is not available in the UK."
But, despite his success, the academic is still not convinced he is ready to commit to fashion for good.
"I did say to someone the other day, ‘I think this is the rest of my life beginning'," he said.
"In terms of my professional career, I've spent nearly 30 years in academia. And, as an architect, I still want to build, I still want to design. But now I've got this whole other thing starting in scarves – and even in fashion, heaven help me."
But Richard Weston's creations can now be found alongside those of Alexander McQueen and Manolo Blahnik on the shelves of the 136-year-old Liberty store after appearing on a television talent show to find the UK's next top designer.
Professor Weston, an expert in modern Nordic architecture who has taught at Cardiff University since 1999, makes the scarves in a studio at his home in the Vale of Glamorgan village of Dinas Powys.
Based on the patterns found in naturally-occurring crystals and fossils, his designs now sell for up to ￡210, with Liberty expecting his range of scarves to turn over ￡170,000 over the course of this year.
"It's lucky I'm used to not thinking in the box," said Prof Weston. "Being involved in architecture, it's something you get used to."
The designs for the scarves are based on the high-resolution scans of minerals, fossils and stones, making the images unique.
"You can't beat nature at doing certain kinds of things. If you want subtlety of colour and intricacy of pattern and variation, nature is it," he said.
He picked up his first mineral in 2003 when a chunk of ammonite in the window of a crystal shop in a Cardiff arcade caught his eye.
He used a scanner to transfer the swirling pattern to his computer, and was stunned by the result.
He said: "I started off buying cheap pebbles for ￡5 or ￡6, and each time they became more and more interesting. I'd pick up minerals and stones every time I went on holiday, or to a conference. I've got about 40 boxes at the moment."
After his initial fascination with creating electronic images of microscopic patterns in various crystals, it was two years before Prof Weston discovered that new technology would allow him to print the images onto fabric.
In 2005 he sponsored students at Newport Art College to use silk emblazoned with his designs in their end-of-year fashion show.
Then, in early 2010, his interest was pricked by an interview with Liberty's managing director Ed Burstell on Radio 4's Today programme.
The newly-appointed Mr Burstell wanted to find the next big thing in retail by holding an open day at the store.
Prof Weston added: "It was a kind of X Factor for design, so I signed up.
"I had a terrible cold and missed the first audition but I applied for the next round, and it was lucky I did because it was then discovered that there was going to be a programme filmed at that round."
The programme would end up as the BBC's Britain's Next Big Thing, which airs in April, hosted by Dragons' Den entrepreneur Theo Paphitis.
But, despite Prof Weston catching the eye of Liberty's buyers, he had a lot of work before the end product was suitable for sale on the prestigious shelves of its store in Great Marlborough Street, just off London's Oxford Street.
"At first I was making long narrow scarves, because people said that square ones would not sell," he said.
"But Ed Burstell said immediately that he wanted the biggest squares possible.
"But it was so difficult to get square silk prints with a design, and to get them hand-rolled was impossible. I could get it done in China, but they wanted large quantities."
Prof Weston ended up travelling to Lake Como in Italy to source the perfect silks on which to print his scans of minerals, a trip that will be shown on Britain's Next Big Thing when it is aired from April 12.
"They are at the forefront of digital printing, and they offer an all-in service, something which, sadly, is not available in the UK."
But, despite his success, the academic is still not convinced he is ready to commit to fashion for good.
"I did say to someone the other day, ‘I think this is the rest of my life beginning'," he said.
"In terms of my professional career, I've spent nearly 30 years in academia. And, as an architect, I still want to build, I still want to design. But now I've got this whole other thing starting in scarves – and even in fashion, heaven help me."
2011年3月20日星期日
The heart and sole of Jimmy Choo
Jimmy Choo's heart and soul — and sole, too — belongs to a woman. Tamara Mellon is growing the luxury brand that has built its reputation on towering high heels into a full-fledged fashion house.
She works on it every single day, she says, and she lives it, too.
She is jet-setter, with her stylish leather luggage (and the wet wipes tucked in her weekender — as she's also a bit of a germophobe); she is business executive, recently named a business ambassador by British Prime Minister David Cameron; she's an eager creative sponge, one season becoming an expert on the life and times of Blondie's Deborah Harry, who was her inspiration; and she's a single mother who wears Uggs or Wellies, depending on the weather, to the park to play with her 8-year-old daughter.
However, as a can-do person, Mellon tackled that whole comfort-mom wardrobe thing head-on, working with both Uggs and Hunter to develop Jimmy Choo cross-branded products that would meet her own style standards.
Her shoes, wardrobe, hair and makeup — each time she walks out the door — can't be an afterthought, says Mellon. She's wearing a leopard-print sheath and pointy-toe patent pumps on this day for an interview in a plush private room at the Saks Fifth Avenue flagship on Fifth Avenue before a public appearance to promote the new Choo fragrance.
"I do have to think about how I look — and it's really in you or it isn't if you care — but I have to be the brand," she says. It's not all black tie and red carpet, mind you, she says, although those are the photos people will see. But when she goes to the office, the outfit will still be chic, fashion-forward and "on the right side of sexy" — complemented with her biker boots.
Anamaria Wilson, fashion news director for Harper's Bazaar, says Mellon's stamp is all over every piece. "The collection is chic and refined, but with a sexy sensibility — much like Tamara herself."
If she wouldn't wear something, there's really no point in offering it to other women, right? Mellon wonders aloud. "If you think you can rely on some sort of science for all this, you will make a mistake. Fashion is about emotion. It's about, ‘What do I want?' and ‘What do women want?'"
Considering the number of shoppers lined up to speak to Mellon on Saks' first floor — definitely dozens — it seems Mellon hears regularly from customers. They want fashion advice, style tips and even guidance on what shoes to wear for their wedding day.
Her answer — to all of them: "My favorite thing to tell people is, ‘Dare to do it and don't be afraid.'"
Mellon was accessories editor at British Vogue back in 1996 when she sensed the opening for a new collection of luxury-label shoes to rival the likes of Manolo Blahnik. Jimmy Choo, the man, had a reputation of craftsmanship for his small couture-level business based in East London.
They launched the brand together, moving production to Italy and courting retailers as well as opening their own boutique. Equinox Luxury Holdings bought him out of his share in 2001, and in 2007, a private equity firm bought a majority of shares, although Mellon retains creative control.
She knew she had a success on her hands, er, feet, when, in 1998, a flood of boxes arrived at the Motcomb Street store and she was surrounded by what she felt were little works of wearable art. "That's when my vision came to life," Mellon says. "I can still get that excited — you know, when you get that rush, when you feel you've got it right."
Mellon says it took years to develop the fragrance because it had to be the perfect blend, one that she thinks she and her customers will want to wear on a daily basis for years to come. She wanted it "sensual — and not weak in any way," she explains, ultimately settling on a scent dominated by orchid and patchouli notes.
She'll spray it on every time she's about to disembark a plane to her next destination, hoping it'll become part of the signature style that is Tamara Mellon — and Jimmy Choo.
She works on it every single day, she says, and she lives it, too.
She is jet-setter, with her stylish leather luggage (and the wet wipes tucked in her weekender — as she's also a bit of a germophobe); she is business executive, recently named a business ambassador by British Prime Minister David Cameron; she's an eager creative sponge, one season becoming an expert on the life and times of Blondie's Deborah Harry, who was her inspiration; and she's a single mother who wears Uggs or Wellies, depending on the weather, to the park to play with her 8-year-old daughter.
However, as a can-do person, Mellon tackled that whole comfort-mom wardrobe thing head-on, working with both Uggs and Hunter to develop Jimmy Choo cross-branded products that would meet her own style standards.
Her shoes, wardrobe, hair and makeup — each time she walks out the door — can't be an afterthought, says Mellon. She's wearing a leopard-print sheath and pointy-toe patent pumps on this day for an interview in a plush private room at the Saks Fifth Avenue flagship on Fifth Avenue before a public appearance to promote the new Choo fragrance.
"I do have to think about how I look — and it's really in you or it isn't if you care — but I have to be the brand," she says. It's not all black tie and red carpet, mind you, she says, although those are the photos people will see. But when she goes to the office, the outfit will still be chic, fashion-forward and "on the right side of sexy" — complemented with her biker boots.
Anamaria Wilson, fashion news director for Harper's Bazaar, says Mellon's stamp is all over every piece. "The collection is chic and refined, but with a sexy sensibility — much like Tamara herself."
If she wouldn't wear something, there's really no point in offering it to other women, right? Mellon wonders aloud. "If you think you can rely on some sort of science for all this, you will make a mistake. Fashion is about emotion. It's about, ‘What do I want?' and ‘What do women want?'"
Considering the number of shoppers lined up to speak to Mellon on Saks' first floor — definitely dozens — it seems Mellon hears regularly from customers. They want fashion advice, style tips and even guidance on what shoes to wear for their wedding day.
Her answer — to all of them: "My favorite thing to tell people is, ‘Dare to do it and don't be afraid.'"
Mellon was accessories editor at British Vogue back in 1996 when she sensed the opening for a new collection of luxury-label shoes to rival the likes of Manolo Blahnik. Jimmy Choo, the man, had a reputation of craftsmanship for his small couture-level business based in East London.
They launched the brand together, moving production to Italy and courting retailers as well as opening their own boutique. Equinox Luxury Holdings bought him out of his share in 2001, and in 2007, a private equity firm bought a majority of shares, although Mellon retains creative control.
She knew she had a success on her hands, er, feet, when, in 1998, a flood of boxes arrived at the Motcomb Street store and she was surrounded by what she felt were little works of wearable art. "That's when my vision came to life," Mellon says. "I can still get that excited — you know, when you get that rush, when you feel you've got it right."
Mellon says it took years to develop the fragrance because it had to be the perfect blend, one that she thinks she and her customers will want to wear on a daily basis for years to come. She wanted it "sensual — and not weak in any way," she explains, ultimately settling on a scent dominated by orchid and patchouli notes.
She'll spray it on every time she's about to disembark a plane to her next destination, hoping it'll become part of the signature style that is Tamara Mellon — and Jimmy Choo.
2011年3月15日星期二
Grace Coddington Once Buried Manolo Blahnik In The Sand
Admit it — you didn't know who Grace Coddington was until you saw The September Issue. But that's OK. Since the movie came out she's been making up for decades of denying that she's a celebrity and doing things like an interesting profile in Intelligent Life, a supplement to The Economist.
The profile, penned by former Coddington assistant Julie Kavanagh (who's now the London editor of Vanity Fair), details Coddington's decades in fashion, and explains how she's transformed from one the most quietly influential people in the industry to one of its stars. A lot of it comes from hard work, and some of it comes from working in the industry for so long, both as a model and as a fashion editor. But mostly, it's from her looking at fashion as something magical and fun rather than as a business. Below, some of our favorite bits of the piece, including the time she did a beach shoot with Manolo Blahnik, the time she quit working for Anna Wintour and why she needs to slow down — just a little bit.
On playing on the beach with Manolo Blahnik.
For a cover, she got David Bailey to shoot the actress Anjelica Huston enfolded in the arms of the shoe designer Manolo Blahnik, in a kitschy pose against a Corsican coastal sunset. Grace bursts out laughing when I remind her. "It was pretty ridiculous—there's no one more camp than Manolo. He brought his own clothes and took far more of my time discussing what he was going to wear than Anjelica did. To shut him up we buried him in the sand, with only his head and spotted handkerchief showing."
That time she quit working for Anna.
At British Vogue, Grace creates a startling series of "sprawling, National Geographic-style photo essays—more than 20 pages long—in which the clothes were so smoothly integrated they barely registered as fashion photographs at all", as the fashion writer Michael Roberts put it. In March 1986, Anna Wintour becomes editor-in-chief. Grace resigns in December: "Anna was much more into ‘sexy' than I was." (Coddington rejoined Wintour at American Vogue in 1988.)
On getting older.
"I got really sick last time in Paris, and I was on antibiotics for two months. I push my body too hard, and do have to stop myself now from jumping on a plane. It used to be me who got sent to Russia and China while the older editors like Sheila Whetton stayed behind: but I'm one of those older ones now."
The profile, penned by former Coddington assistant Julie Kavanagh (who's now the London editor of Vanity Fair), details Coddington's decades in fashion, and explains how she's transformed from one the most quietly influential people in the industry to one of its stars. A lot of it comes from hard work, and some of it comes from working in the industry for so long, both as a model and as a fashion editor. But mostly, it's from her looking at fashion as something magical and fun rather than as a business. Below, some of our favorite bits of the piece, including the time she did a beach shoot with Manolo Blahnik, the time she quit working for Anna Wintour and why she needs to slow down — just a little bit.
On playing on the beach with Manolo Blahnik.
For a cover, she got David Bailey to shoot the actress Anjelica Huston enfolded in the arms of the shoe designer Manolo Blahnik, in a kitschy pose against a Corsican coastal sunset. Grace bursts out laughing when I remind her. "It was pretty ridiculous—there's no one more camp than Manolo. He brought his own clothes and took far more of my time discussing what he was going to wear than Anjelica did. To shut him up we buried him in the sand, with only his head and spotted handkerchief showing."
That time she quit working for Anna.
At British Vogue, Grace creates a startling series of "sprawling, National Geographic-style photo essays—more than 20 pages long—in which the clothes were so smoothly integrated they barely registered as fashion photographs at all", as the fashion writer Michael Roberts put it. In March 1986, Anna Wintour becomes editor-in-chief. Grace resigns in December: "Anna was much more into ‘sexy' than I was." (Coddington rejoined Wintour at American Vogue in 1988.)
On getting older.
"I got really sick last time in Paris, and I was on antibiotics for two months. I push my body too hard, and do have to stop myself now from jumping on a plane. It used to be me who got sent to Russia and China while the older editors like Sheila Whetton stayed behind: but I'm one of those older ones now."
2011年3月13日星期日
Tamara Mellon is at the heart and sole of Jimmy Choo
Jimmy Choo's heart and soul - and sole, too - belongs to a woman. Tamara Mellon is growing the luxury brand that has built its reputation on towering high heels into a full-fledged fashion house.
She works on it every single day, she says, and she lives it, too.
She is jet-setter, with her stylish leather luggage (and the wet wipes tucked in her weekender - as she's also a bit of a germophobe); she is business executive, recently being named a business ambassador by British Prime Minister David Cameron; she's eager creative sponge, one season becoming an expert on the life and times of Blondie's Deborah Harry, who was her inspiration; and she's single mother, who wears Uggs or Wellies, depending on the weather, to the park to play with her 8-year-old daughter.
However, as a can-do person, Mellon tackled that whole comfort-mom wardrobe thing head-on, working with both Uggs and Hunter to develop Jimmy Choo-cross branded products that would meet her own style standards.
Her shoes, wardrobe, hair and makeup each time she walks out the door can't be an afterthought, says Mellon. She's wearing a leopard-print sheath and pointy-toe patent pumps on this day for an interview in a plush private room at the Saks Fifth Avenue flagship on Fifth Avenue before a public appearance to promote the new Choo fragrance.
"I do have to think about how I look - and it's really in you or it isn't if you care - but I have to be the brand," she says. It's not all black tie and red carpet, mind you, she says, although those are the photos people will see. But when she goes to the office, the outfit will still be chic, fashion-forward and "on the right side of sexy" - complemented with her biker boots.
Anamaria Wilson, fashion news director for Harper's Bazaar, says Mellon's stamp is all over every piece. "The collection is chic and refined, but with a sexy sensibility - much like Tamara herself."
If she wouldn't wear something, there's really no point in offering it to other women, right? Mellon wonders aloud. "If you think you can rely on some sort of science for all this, you will make a mistake. Fashion is about emotion. It's about, 'What do I want?' and 'What do women want?'"
Considering the number of shoppers lined up to speak to Mellon on Saks' first floor - definitely dozens - it seems Mellon hears regularly from customers. They want fashion advice, style tips and even guidance on what shoes to wear for their wedding day.
Her answer - to all of them: "My favorite thing to tell people is, 'Dare to do it and don't be afraid.'"
Mellon was accessories editor at British Vogue back in 1996 when she sensed the opening for a new collection of luxury-label shoes to rival the likes of Manolo Blahnik. Jimmy Choo, the man, had a reputation of craftsmanship for his small couture-level business based in East London.
They launched the brand together, moving production to Italy and courting retailers as well as opening their own boutique. Equinox Luxury Holdings bought him out of his share in 2001, and in 2007, a private equity firm bought a majority of shares, although Mellon retains creative control.
She knew she had a success on her hands, er, feet, when, in 1998, a flood of boxes arrived at the Motcomb Street store and she was surrounded by what she felt were little works of wearable art. "That's when my vision came to life," Mellon says. "I can still get that excited - you know when you get that rush when you feel you've got it right."
Mellon says it took years to develop the fragrance because it had to be the perfect blend, one that she thinks she and her customers will want to wear on a daily basis for years to come. She wanted it "sensual - and not weak in any way," she explains, ultimately settling on a scent dominated by orchid and patchouli notes.
She'll spray it on every time she's about to disembark a plane to her next destination, hoping it'll become part of the signature style that is Tamara Mellon - and Jimmy Choo.
She works on it every single day, she says, and she lives it, too.
She is jet-setter, with her stylish leather luggage (and the wet wipes tucked in her weekender - as she's also a bit of a germophobe); she is business executive, recently being named a business ambassador by British Prime Minister David Cameron; she's eager creative sponge, one season becoming an expert on the life and times of Blondie's Deborah Harry, who was her inspiration; and she's single mother, who wears Uggs or Wellies, depending on the weather, to the park to play with her 8-year-old daughter.
However, as a can-do person, Mellon tackled that whole comfort-mom wardrobe thing head-on, working with both Uggs and Hunter to develop Jimmy Choo-cross branded products that would meet her own style standards.
Her shoes, wardrobe, hair and makeup each time she walks out the door can't be an afterthought, says Mellon. She's wearing a leopard-print sheath and pointy-toe patent pumps on this day for an interview in a plush private room at the Saks Fifth Avenue flagship on Fifth Avenue before a public appearance to promote the new Choo fragrance.
"I do have to think about how I look - and it's really in you or it isn't if you care - but I have to be the brand," she says. It's not all black tie and red carpet, mind you, she says, although those are the photos people will see. But when she goes to the office, the outfit will still be chic, fashion-forward and "on the right side of sexy" - complemented with her biker boots.
Anamaria Wilson, fashion news director for Harper's Bazaar, says Mellon's stamp is all over every piece. "The collection is chic and refined, but with a sexy sensibility - much like Tamara herself."
If she wouldn't wear something, there's really no point in offering it to other women, right? Mellon wonders aloud. "If you think you can rely on some sort of science for all this, you will make a mistake. Fashion is about emotion. It's about, 'What do I want?' and 'What do women want?'"
Considering the number of shoppers lined up to speak to Mellon on Saks' first floor - definitely dozens - it seems Mellon hears regularly from customers. They want fashion advice, style tips and even guidance on what shoes to wear for their wedding day.
Her answer - to all of them: "My favorite thing to tell people is, 'Dare to do it and don't be afraid.'"
Mellon was accessories editor at British Vogue back in 1996 when she sensed the opening for a new collection of luxury-label shoes to rival the likes of Manolo Blahnik. Jimmy Choo, the man, had a reputation of craftsmanship for his small couture-level business based in East London.
They launched the brand together, moving production to Italy and courting retailers as well as opening their own boutique. Equinox Luxury Holdings bought him out of his share in 2001, and in 2007, a private equity firm bought a majority of shares, although Mellon retains creative control.
She knew she had a success on her hands, er, feet, when, in 1998, a flood of boxes arrived at the Motcomb Street store and she was surrounded by what she felt were little works of wearable art. "That's when my vision came to life," Mellon says. "I can still get that excited - you know when you get that rush when you feel you've got it right."
Mellon says it took years to develop the fragrance because it had to be the perfect blend, one that she thinks she and her customers will want to wear on a daily basis for years to come. She wanted it "sensual - and not weak in any way," she explains, ultimately settling on a scent dominated by orchid and patchouli notes.
She'll spray it on every time she's about to disembark a plane to her next destination, hoping it'll become part of the signature style that is Tamara Mellon - and Jimmy Choo.
2011年3月8日星期二
Manolo Blahnik for TOUS: The Campari Shoe as Jewelry
Designed in 1994, the Campari shoe from Manolo Blahnik—made famous by Sex and the City character Carrie Bradshaw—is now available in jewelry form, thanks to a new partnership between the shoemaker and the jeweler TOUS.
The Manolo Blahnik for TOUS Campari shoe pendant necklace is available in sterling silver, vermeil, and 18k gold, with suggested retail prices starting at just $155. Moving forward, Manolo Blahnik boutiques and will also carry the piece.
TOUS announced the collaboration in January, but is just now releasing photos of the jewelry, which went on sale this month in 300 TOUS boutiques worldwide, including in Mexico and the United States.
Designed in 1994, the Campari shoe from Manolo Blahnik—made famous by Sex and the City character Carrie Bradshaw—is now available in jewelry form, thanks to a new partnership between the shoemaker and the jeweler TOUS.
Manolo Blahnik Campari shoes
The Manolo Blahnik for TOUS Campari shoe pendant necklace is available in sterling silver, vermeil, and 18k gold, with suggested retail prices starting at just $155. Moving forward, Manolo Blahnik boutiques and will also carry the piece.
TOUS announced the collaboration in January, but is just now releasing photos of the jewelry, which went on sale this month in 300 TOUS boutiques worldwide, including in Mexico and the United States.
There are three different sizes of sterling shoe pendants, priced at $155, $249, and $279.
There are three different sizes of vermeil (18k gold over sterling) shoe pendants, priced $279, $409, and $499. An 18k gold shoe pendant with a diamond accent on the strap is also available for $1,449.
New Yorkers and theatre goers may be interested to know that the small $155 silver necklace is being sold at Priscilla Queen of the Desert the Musical at the Palace Theater on Broadway. A full 100 percent of the proceeds benefits Bette Midler's New York Restoration Project, a nonprofit organization dedicated to reclaiming and restoring New York City parks, community gardens, and open space. Midler is one of the show's producers, and Manolo is one of the show's opening-night sponsors. Yet another fun tie-in: Manolo unveiled an official stiletto—a silver, patent-leather Priscilla Mary Jane—for the production; a portion of sale proceeds also benefit Midler's charity.
The Manolo Blahnik for TOUS Campari shoe pendant necklace is available in sterling silver, vermeil, and 18k gold, with suggested retail prices starting at just $155. Moving forward, Manolo Blahnik boutiques and will also carry the piece.
TOUS announced the collaboration in January, but is just now releasing photos of the jewelry, which went on sale this month in 300 TOUS boutiques worldwide, including in Mexico and the United States.
Designed in 1994, the Campari shoe from Manolo Blahnik—made famous by Sex and the City character Carrie Bradshaw—is now available in jewelry form, thanks to a new partnership between the shoemaker and the jeweler TOUS.
Manolo Blahnik Campari shoes
The Manolo Blahnik for TOUS Campari shoe pendant necklace is available in sterling silver, vermeil, and 18k gold, with suggested retail prices starting at just $155. Moving forward, Manolo Blahnik boutiques and will also carry the piece.
TOUS announced the collaboration in January, but is just now releasing photos of the jewelry, which went on sale this month in 300 TOUS boutiques worldwide, including in Mexico and the United States.
There are three different sizes of sterling shoe pendants, priced at $155, $249, and $279.
There are three different sizes of vermeil (18k gold over sterling) shoe pendants, priced $279, $409, and $499. An 18k gold shoe pendant with a diamond accent on the strap is also available for $1,449.
New Yorkers and theatre goers may be interested to know that the small $155 silver necklace is being sold at Priscilla Queen of the Desert the Musical at the Palace Theater on Broadway. A full 100 percent of the proceeds benefits Bette Midler's New York Restoration Project, a nonprofit organization dedicated to reclaiming and restoring New York City parks, community gardens, and open space. Midler is one of the show's producers, and Manolo is one of the show's opening-night sponsors. Yet another fun tie-in: Manolo unveiled an official stiletto—a silver, patent-leather Priscilla Mary Jane—for the production; a portion of sale proceeds also benefit Midler's charity.
2011年3月6日星期日
MARCHING INTO SPRING
This spring, wearing camouflage won't help anyone stay under the radar. With designers such as Manolo Blahnik, Prada and Michael Kors creating high-end pieces and popular outlets such as Target and Payless Shoes offering budget-friendly examples, the green-and-brown print is attracting lots of attention.
"Camo is coming to a more mainstream market now; I think we will start to see it more and more," says Debbie Feehan of Madison, chief creative officer of Huckle and Gatsby, a Jersey-based clothing line for women.
Traditionally worn by hunters and members of the military, camouflage prints have been popping up on pop stars such as Beyonce, Rihanna and Kim Kardashian. Even comedian-turned-fashion-policewoman Joan Rivers is hawking her own design of camouflage pumps on the QVC home shopping network.
Wearing camouflage no longer necessarily translates to a tough look. This season, the print can be found on feminine items such as high heels, fitted skirts and silky blouses.
Victoria's Secret even offers a camouflage ruched corset, and there's a large selection of camouflage-inspired wedding dresses available at camoformal.com, a website that caters to women who embrace the trend.
Feehan explains that camouflage prints can be dressed up or down, depending on the material used.
"I think the pattern is really changed by what it is printed on," she says. "If it is silk, it is going to look very feminine, while cargo pants are going to look more masculine. It depends on what you are making out of it."
Joy Cutrone, a representative for the upcoming New Jersey Fashion Week in October, says she loves the look and thinks it can be very feminine when appearing on straight skirts, fitted shirts, shoes and bags.
She warns that the busy design isn't always flattering, however.
"I think a camouflage print really accentuates whatever part of the body it's on," says Cutrone, a Woodbridge resident who wears the crown of Mrs. Middlesex County. "So you don't want to wear it across any area you are trying to disguise."
"Camo is coming to a more mainstream market now; I think we will start to see it more and more," says Debbie Feehan of Madison, chief creative officer of Huckle and Gatsby, a Jersey-based clothing line for women.
Traditionally worn by hunters and members of the military, camouflage prints have been popping up on pop stars such as Beyonce, Rihanna and Kim Kardashian. Even comedian-turned-fashion-policewoman Joan Rivers is hawking her own design of camouflage pumps on the QVC home shopping network.
Wearing camouflage no longer necessarily translates to a tough look. This season, the print can be found on feminine items such as high heels, fitted skirts and silky blouses.
Victoria's Secret even offers a camouflage ruched corset, and there's a large selection of camouflage-inspired wedding dresses available at camoformal.com, a website that caters to women who embrace the trend.
Feehan explains that camouflage prints can be dressed up or down, depending on the material used.
"I think the pattern is really changed by what it is printed on," she says. "If it is silk, it is going to look very feminine, while cargo pants are going to look more masculine. It depends on what you are making out of it."
Joy Cutrone, a representative for the upcoming New Jersey Fashion Week in October, says she loves the look and thinks it can be very feminine when appearing on straight skirts, fitted shirts, shoes and bags.
She warns that the busy design isn't always flattering, however.
"I think a camouflage print really accentuates whatever part of the body it's on," says Cutrone, a Woodbridge resident who wears the crown of Mrs. Middlesex County. "So you don't want to wear it across any area you are trying to disguise."
2011年3月2日星期三
Amazing Online Offer: Design One Pair Of Shoes, Get One Free!
If your shoe collection is in need of a new-season update, then you need to bookmark Upperstreet.com sharpish. The brainchild of shoe-loving sisters Julia and Katy, it's an online boutique that lets you indulge your inner Manolo Blahnik by designing your dream pair of heels, and to celebrate their first birthday, today you can create a pair of shoes and get another completely free.
From peep-toe platforms to classic court styles and with a rainbow of colours and textures including snakeskin, satin and suede, they have everything you need to create your ultimate shoe, and they'll even adjust them for free if they don't fit perfectly. You've got until midnight tonight to log on, design your heels and buy them, and within a day of placing your order, you'll be sent a voucher code for the same amount so you can start all over again on your free second pair. You'll never be stuck in a same shoe situation again! GG
From peep-toe platforms to classic court styles and with a rainbow of colours and textures including snakeskin, satin and suede, they have everything you need to create your ultimate shoe, and they'll even adjust them for free if they don't fit perfectly. You've got until midnight tonight to log on, design your heels and buy them, and within a day of placing your order, you'll be sent a voucher code for the same amount so you can start all over again on your free second pair. You'll never be stuck in a same shoe situation again! GG
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